This is After Her concealer and foundation was applied
First Brow Completed
Brows Done & Liner Applied
Step By Step Tutorial:
One of my favorite steps in a makeup application is what I call “Building The Face”, this is the opportunity to really build a strong palette to create upon. This is an opportunity to even the complexion by highlighting areas of the face that you want to emphasize or draw attention to as well as a chance to conceal any imperfections. Its an opportunity to create planes and illusions on the face with makeup, unfortunately so many women rush through this very important step by only applying one color of foundation to the entire face often creating a “flat” facial appearance with no depth or dimension making them look “washed out”. The average complexion has a few shades intermixed. Usually the outer perimeter of the face is darker while the interior areas are usually lighter. For that matter, I first cleansed and moisturized my clients face, after which I applied the Urban Decay Foundation Primer using a sponge applicator. My second step was using the Makeup Forever Camo Palette, I covered the dark areas of her face (under eyes, chin, above lip area) with the orange color corrector concealer which neutralizes darkness. I then went over the orange corrector with my concealer which was 2 shades lighter than her foundation, I used my warmed finger to blot into the skin with an almost tapping motion. INSTANTLY she looks more awakened!. Next I applied Bobbi Brown Foundation in Warm Almond on the areas not touched by the Concealer and then blended everything together with my Beauty Egg Blending sponge. I set the foundation with Sacha Cosmetics Powder on the foundationed areas and Ben Nye Banana Powder on the concealer areas including under-eye area, center of nose and center of forehead and center of chin.. I then shaped and groomed her brows using the “Spiked” MAC eye pencil, carefully defining the shape of the brow I then outlined the under and upper brow with my concealer using the precision shape of a flat eyeliner brush and then blended into the skin. This gives the arch a really defined and sculpted look. I then contoured the cheeks, sides of the nose and her temples with MAC Blush in “Blunt” and Blend! Blend! Blend!. I always lightly brush over my contouring with MAC skin finish powder to soften any harsh contour lines that I may have missed. Next, I asked my client to make a BIG smile, I wanted whenever she smiled, her whole face to glow so I applied MAC “Style” on the apples of her cheeks and went on top of it with MAC Blush in “PeachTwist”. I “tapped” a small amount of “Style in the corners of her forehead to balance out the “glow”. Next I primed her eyelids by SPARINGLY applying MAC Prep-N-Prime Eye Primer on her lower lid and blending over her eye area that I intended to apply makeup to. I took Laura Geller “Blanco” eyeshadow and dusted her inner tear duct area in a seemingly horse shoe formation. I applied “Booty Call” eyeshadow by Urban Decay on her lower lid and blended up to the crease area. I applied MAC “Brown Down” in the crease area and blended it into a fading effect towards the edges of her eye. I also used “Booty Call” on the brow bone and lined only the top lash line with a black cream liner. To finish off this Chic eye area, I applied 3 coats of mascara. I lined her lips with MAC cork pencil and asked her to rub her lips together to blend the liner, I applied MAC lip moisturizer and used “Plum Perfect” lipstick by Maybelline on her lips to finish this Naturally Glowing Look with Earth Toned Shadows.!
I welcome your comments and/or questions.
Step By Step Tutorial Of This Sizzlin Hott Makoever
GET THE LOOK:
Mary Kay Timewise 3-in-1 cleanser
Mary Kay Timewise Age-Fighting Moisturizer
Urban Decay Complexion Primer Potion – Brightening formula
Makeup Forever Camouflage Cream Palettes 2&4
Bobbi Brown foundation stick in Warm Almond
Bobbi Brown loose powder in Warm Chesnut
Ben Nye Banana Powder
MaAC blush in “Style”
Sleek Cosmetics Contour Kit in Dark
MAC lipsticks in “golden bronze” and “photo”
Iman lipliner in Cocoa
Iman Cosmetics bronzer “Afterglow”
MAC eye pencil “Spiked” and “Feline”
ANASTASIA brow kit
Urban Decay Eyeshadow primer
MAC eyeshadows in carbon and sketch
Bobbi Brown Mascara
Urban Decay “AllNighter” Makeup setting spray
I prepared my clients face by cleansing with Mary Kay 3N1 Cleanser and followed with the Age-Fighting Moisturizer
To prepare the skin for the foundation, I applied Urban Decays Complexion Primer Potion, the Brightening formula to the entire face.
Using the Makeup Forever Camo Platte #2 i applied the purple concealer under the eye area and onto the plains of the cheek , forehead and chin area, this is will illuminate the concealer thats applied on top of it to give a highlighting effect.
I then used the Makeup Forever #4 Palette, the medium brown color to apply on top of those areas I applied the purple. I applied in a tapping motion with my warmed finger tips.
I then applied Bobbi Browns foundation stick in “Warm Chestnut” on the places of the face not covered with concealer and then took a “Beauty Egg” or sponge and blended the entire face together, mixing the foundation and concealers together.
To set the foundation I applied Bobbi Brown Loose Powder in warm Chestnut over the areas that had foundation and i used Ben Nye Banana Powder over the areas i applied the concealer, this intensified the highlighting effect.
Using my Sleek cosmetics contour kit in shade DARK, I used a fluffy Angled blush brush and contoured the cheek, temple, sides of nose and jawline.
I applied IMAN’s Bronzer in ‘Afterglow” to the cheeks and temples to give the face some “life” and warmth.
I began to sculpt the brow using a brown brush and the used MAC eye pencil in the color “Spiked” and outlined the top and bottom of the brow and lightly filled it in, taking the brow brush I blended the liner into the hairs, I then used Anastasia’s brow wax to cover the brow and applied the medium brown powder on top of the wax and brushed to soften and blend. To further define my brow, outlined the upper and lower brow with a concealer 1 shade lighter than her complexion.
To get the “Hollywood Glow”, i applied MAC “Style” blush to the apples of the cheeks.
I lined the lips with IMAN’s lipliner in “Cocoa” and applied MAC “Golden Bronze” to the center area of the bottom lip and center of top lip, I then applied MAC lipstick in “Photo” to the outside parts of the lips and asked my client to gently rub her lips together to blend.
On the eyes, I applied Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer to the areas I would be applying eyeshadow, a little goes a LONG way. I then applied MAC “Sketch” in the crease area slightly feathering upward and then applied MAC shadow in “Carbon” on the lid and blended.
I lined the top and bottom lash line and waterline with MAC eye pencil in “Feline” and blended to create a smokey effect.
I applied 2 coats of Bobbi Brown Mascara and a pair of False Lashes to complete her fabulous look.
To set her makeup, I lightly sprayed Urban Decays “All Nighter” Makeup Setting Spray to her entire face in a “X” formation.
Regina Asks: “What is the best foundation for extremely oily skin? How do I determine the foundation color for my skin tone (w/yellow undertones)?”
Thanks for contacting me Regina,
Regina, African-American women’s skin varies from light to dark and every shade in between. Even though companies have gotten better about offering makeup for African-American women, it can still be difficult to find the shade that best matches one’s skin. If a woman chooses the wrong shade, it will make her skin look too dark or pasty. One of the lessons Nate and I teach at L.F.I Makeup Academy is selecting the proper foundation and concealer for your skin type and complexion. Foundation doesn’t look the same on skin as it does in the container. Thus, it’s important to test in natural lighting and not artificial light which will give you a “false match” and test foundation along the jaw line or the wrist to see if it matches one’s skin tone. In the case of uneven or blotchy skin tone which most women of color have, darker on perimeter and through jawline line and lighter everywhere else, two different foundations can be used to even out the complexion.Color isn’t the only thing to be concerned about when choosing a foundation. Skin type plays an important role. Women with normal to oily skin may want to choose a water-based liquid foundation or a powder foundation. Women with skin that tends to be dry should try cream foundation. To obtain a flawless complexion, moisturizing is important. You want the foundation to blend seamlessly into your skin Regina and skin that is not moisturized can appear streaky, ashy or chalky. Facial moisturizer should be applied to slightly damp skin after cleansing and allowed to dry before applying foundation. Women with oily skin need to make sure to choose a product without added oils, either water-based or oil-free.
My Top Foundation Choices For Your Skin Type:
Black Opal. I was so enamored with Black Opal’s True Color Liquid Foundation because it gave such a beautiful finish and was priced so right at just $8.95. They offer a range of foundations in several formulations to suit your skin type.
Bobbi Brown. Makeup artist Bobbi Brown is known for her beautiful and natural makeup looks so naturally her makeup line offers foundations that do the same. Her foundations come in a wide range of skin tones and has formulas for every skin type. This is the brand that i use 90% of the time. A bit pricey but I LOVE IT!
Prescriptives Virtual Matte foundation. It absorbs oil and goes on very smooth. It also has an SPF of 15. Precriptives foundations match your undertone that way you get that flawless skin look that matches your skin. Regina you can find this product at department stores or online.
Iman’s Luxury Radiance Liquid Makeup it’s “Enriched with minerals” which simply means that this oil-free foundation contains vitamin E, micro-mineral pigments and a plant extract complex of Acia and Magnolia. These minerals not only help hydrate the skin but also assist in enhancing the skin tone. This foundation gives a semi-matte finish and includes mica pearls that add a bit of a glow to the skin. You can now find this at Target Stores, some Walmarts or Walgreens drug stores.
Thanks For your question and let me know if one of these works for you!
I have tons of palettes in my makeup case (s) because they are so conveneien and east to carry on assignments or photo shoots. 2 of my favorite ones come from Urban Decay found Online or at Sephora or Ulta, retailing for $50 each and at first glance you might think they look similar, but the original NAKED has more gold and yellow and peach-bronze hues, where the NAKED 2 has cooler more taupe colors with some mild golds, matte colors, and more muted bronze colors. I really cant say that I prefe one over the other as I use them both very often at the same time.
The naked palette: has a lot more shimmers, and more golden-gold-bronze hues, like the 3 middle colors. I love the steel blue, half-baked and Gunmetal.
The NAKED 2: I love that they added a matte black YES!, I love that there are more matte colors, TEASE- a light dusty taupe, is gorgeous, and Pistol a silvery-grey, and VERVE are fabulous when aplied on the eyes. My favorite “go to” colors are Bootycall on the lid and Foxy, for highlighting the inner corner of the eye
These are 2 Must haves for your kit!
Happy Face Beating!!
As a full-time hairstylist you can imagine how many women I come in contact with In a months time. For this reason, I wear multiple hats sometimes including being a Confidant, Counselor and even to some, a “Big Brother”. A few years ago I came in contact with a new client who was in her mid 20’s and just seemed really burdened. I felt the negative energy when she walked into the salon, it traveled with her as she made her way to my styling chair. I never knew her, she came into my life unsolicited and unannounced but for some reason, I felt her pain. A kindred spirit, if you will. I began to consult with her as I do with every new client and through her answers she begin to reveal pieces of a puzzle that i was finally beginning to piece together. She was looking for love in all the wrong places!..We talked and we laughed and she loved her hair when i finished (of course!) she scheduled a few more appointments and we grew even more closer, I even called her my “Lil Sister”. As our “kindred spirits” continued bonding, I broke a cardinal rule of mine and we saw each other outside of business hours (stylist, beware as this is not my usual advice) we went to a concert and to dinner, platonically of course. During dinner she told me how much she admired my relationship with my partner Nate of 14 years, she told me that she hasnt had any luck meeting a man that appreciated her and “gave” her what she felt she deserved. After a hour of hearing her ramble (thats what it sounded like), I asked a question, “What do you Need from a man in order for him to be your Mr.Right? and after nearly 3 minutes of silence, tears began to flow from her eyes, I allowed her to “release” her frustration uninterruptedly and then she said that the relationships she had been in, she felt she gave all over herself mind, BODY and soul and received little or nothing. She also said that she dreamed of a man that would shower her with kisses, gifts and attention, yet she allowed herself to settle for cheap sex, a birthday text and “I’ll see ya when i see ya!”. This happens to so many other men and women around the world but ironically, it also happened to me. Before I met the wonderful person I call my “spouse” Nate, I was on a rollercoaster of broken relationships, broken hearts and empty bank accounts as i tried to love the wrong people and “convince” the wrong people to love me. This mistake was often a costly one as I felt the need to “buy” love with costly gifts, vacations and items that i couldnt even enjoy, let alone afford. This is what I now know for sure, God has every little detail of our lives already planned out, details as minute as to what we chose to wear to work today to a decision as important as to who we will finally meet and marry. Our job is to walk the walk, learn from all our mistakes and grow from them because until we learn the lesson, we will repeat the course. Some courses come in the form of us settling and staying in bad relationships, some in the form of us attracting abusive partners, Poor self esteem an so forth. LEARN THE LESSON THE FIRST TIME! Oprah Winfrey, my unofficial life coach, once said that life sometimes speaks to us in a whisper, it’s that inner voice that whispers in your spirit when something happens and makes you say to yourself “huh, thats odd?!”Oprah says that if you don’t get the whisper, the message gets a bit louder. It becomes a pebble (a problem); then a brick (a crisis), then a wall falling down on you (a full-blown disaster). I shared with my client/friend that she deserved everything that she wanted from both life and in a mate but SHE allowed herself to settle for less as so many of us have. You have to “Ask” for what you want and understand that your partner may not be wiling or even able to give you what u want and need, you then need to decide if staying and settling is an option. Teach people how to treat you. You also need to make sure that you are realistic, there aren’t many people nowadays that are going to allow themsleves to be used “just” for their resources. Another thing that I know for sure and I KNOW this because i live it everyday and have lived it for the past 12 years ( it took me 2 years to lock him down lol) I know that if you Aim for his heart, his wallet will follow. Love is an action word, it is impossible to love someone without giving to them, whether it be of your time, your actions or YES!, even your money. I am blessed that i am in a relationship where my partner and I actually try and out give to one another. My client moved to California last February and we keep in touch on a regular basis. Last weekend I recieved a text from her that read “Guess who’s getting married?”..She found Mr.Right!, their love story started when she was at a job fair and she kept running into a guy by accident (how many of you know, there is no such thing as an accident) to make a long story short they exchanged numbers and went on a few small dates here and there and she really was playing the hard ball with him (And as a man, we love the chase). He never told her what he did for a living only that he currently wasn’t working, she didn’t even mind that he wasn’t working because she remembered what she and i had talked about.
The relationship blossomed and i knew she was truly happy and in love. One evening we chatted on the phone and she told me that she was meeting him that evening for dinner because he had something to tell her. She was indeed terrified of what the news could be, I urged her to remain calm and that it was probably nothing to worry about. To make a long story short, what he had to tell her was that he was a Profesdional football player and would be leaving for a few weeks. It ends up that my friend was dating a player from the San Francisco 49ers they have had a wonderful relationship and plan to wed this Christmas in Jamaica. Everything that she has wanted in a man was given to her when she stopped “searching” for it and settling for less. She now has all the Gucci and Prada a girl could want and a big ‘ole house being custom built (with a room for me). Love sometimes take a minute to arrive at your door. my advice is when the doorbell rings, don’t turn it away because it doesn’t “look” like what you expected.
We’ve all seen her, maybe when you were walking through the mall minding your OWN business, not coming to stare at folk or judge anybody BUT out Pops “Ms.Thang!” And the sea of folk in the mall part like Moses & The red sea as she inches her way through the crowd of “Haters” (as she refers to us) she struggles to maintain her equilibrium as she attempts to balance herself on those 5 inch heels she CHOSE to wear while shopping int he mall. You “Gasp!” in disbelief as you ask yourself if this woman even has a good mind, good mirror or goof friend for that matter that would allow her to enter into public humiliation such as she has. It makes you wanna say “Oh No She Didn’t!”
There have been times in all of our lives when we went through stages where we can look back and say “Oh No I Didn’t!” I for sure have had my share of faux pas. BThere have been times when i would accuse my dry cleaners of SHRINKING MY CLOTHES, I’d be so stressed and fuming mad agter I left that I would rush home and order a large pizza and eat it myself (Hence the incredibly shrinking clothes). There have been times when i would go to the mall and see a outfit on the manikin and my evil friend in my head 9the one who ALWAYS means me no good) would tell me “You KNOW you got to get that!”. And i did. I’d rush home, try it on and realize that i am NOT shaped like that manikin in the window! Mistakes we all made or still make. Here’s a little advice to help
I Believe Clothing Should:
Fit and enhance your body shape
Be made with premium fabrics
Be in colors that complement you
Move with your body
Getting dressed is a whole lot easier when you know what pieces work best for your shape. It’s so fun to try all the super-trendy fashions out there, but it’s easy to end up wearing the totally wrong thing for you. Body shape is all about proportion, and fashion is all about dressing those proportions to look their very best.
When you think about body types, don’t focus on height and weight… focus on shape. A slender gal can have the same body shape as a curvy gal, just as a short woman can have the same body shape as her taller friend.
Each of us is unique — and our bodies are, too! Nevertheless, our body shapes are generally narrowed down to five general categories: pear, wedge, rectangle, apple and hourglass. You might fall into one category, or you might be a blend of two or more categories.
Once you’ve determined your body shape, you can begin to consider which fashion trends to embrace and which to avoid. Spend some time in front of the mirror and do a fair and honest assessment of your body. Then put these fashion tips to work for you!
Rectangular: You want to call attention to your top to divert eyes from your straight-up-and-down proportions. A little padding in your shoulders will do wonders, as long as you don’t go overboard. If you have reasonably well-toned arms, go for sleeveless tops with a high neckline. Dresses that wrap or flow (meaning, they don’t cinch) through the waistline are another good choice. When you wear slacks, go with straight or gently-flared hems. If you’re slender, defining your waist with an artful belt can help, too.
Inverted Triangle: If you have broad shoulders or a particularly curvy bosom, you fall into this body shape category. First of all, if curves are your issue, spend some time picking out a bra that fits you, so that it doesn’t further exaggerate your silhouette. Tops and dresses that flow through the waist are also good for evening out your proportions. Flared pants and A-line skirts will create the illusion of bodily balance, too.
Hourglass: Even though you’re wonderfully symmetrical and you can pull off a wide variety of looks, you still need to pick clothes that at least subtly flatter your attributes. For example, stay away from baggy clothes that obscure your shape. Ditto for stiff fabrics and high necklines. You’ll look your best in tailored, fitted clothes with soft fabrics, low to medium necklines, and gently-flared slacks and skirts.
Circumference of bust is smaller than hip and has a small waist and full thighs. How to bring balance to the pear shape: Draw attention upward by wearing a wide neckline like a boat neck. An A-line dress will camouflage full hips and thighs and is great for all pear/triangle body types. The ultimate silhouette for a pear/triangle shape with a small to medium bust line is an A-line empire waist dress which, depending on the style, can add volume to the bust. The goal with the hem length is have a balanced distance from the hip line to the hem; for petite frames knee length is good and taller frames mid calf–full length. Keep in mind that if a pear/triangle body type wears an A-line that is too short it can draw attention to the hip line.
The problem areas for apple shapes are the torso and abdominal areas.The trick therefore is to draw attention to your best areas whiles drawing attention away from your problem areas.So do not wear clothes with embellishments or details round the waist.And also avoid pleats or ruching on the front of your pants rise,This will only draw attention to your problem area,instead,wear normal to high rise pants with a flat front.This helps to reduce bulking around your midriff.Concentrate on wearing clothes with interesting shoulder and neckline details and add volume to your hips by wearing full skirts ,prints,florals,etc.Avoid clingy fabrics and tight silhouettes unless you are wearing the right undergarment,(waist cincher).Your blouses and tops must end around the hips.Anything shorter and the attention will be on your midsection(issue area).
HOW TO DRESS THE APPLE SHAPE TO LOOK FABULOUS :
To achieve a proportional body shape,apple shapes must concentrate on dressing in such a way that the waist will appear narrower giving the illusion of a defined waist.
Personally,i think the number one WARDROBE ESSENTIAL for the apple shape woman must be A WAIST CINCHER.It tucks in everything and instantly takes inches and inches off your waist and tummy giving you a defined waist which makes it easier for you to wear different outfits without being overly concious of your problem areas.
Wearing High Heels…The WRONG Way!
Wearing high heels can make you stand so that your legs look slimmer, your stomach is flatter, and your femininity is unstoppable. It can also do wonders for attracting admirers from across the room or across street when you have a confident stride, but walking in high heels is not a natural talent–it’s learned skill, perfected by practice and discipline. Walking incorrectly in High Heeled shoes can have the opposite effect. it can make you look unrefined, sloppy and ingenuous not to mention the many health factors associated with incorrectly wearing high heels.Those perfect pumps can create the perfect storm for permanent health problems. If you frequently wear high heels, you are setting yourself up for long-term issues. “Extended wear of high heels and continually bending your toes into an unnatural position can cause a range of ailments, from ingrown toenails to irreversible damage to leg tendons. Additionally, cramming your toes into a narrow toe box can cause nerve damage and bunions,” says Dr. Nevins,an osteopathic physician from Hollywood, Calif “High heels have also been linked to overworked or injured leg muscles, osteoarthritis of the knee, plantar fasciitis and low back pain,” she adds. Despite the potential hazards, stilettos may do wonders for your love life, Most women incorrectly shuffle their feet, placing their weight on the ball of the foot and throwing their bodies off-balance.
I have seen for myself from being around models, performers, queens and all the alike, the three keys to wearing very high heels successfully are:
— Standing up straight, as if you were pulling a string from the top of your head
— Keeping your abdominal muscles taut by sucking your belly button in toward your spine, which pulls your body weight back onto your heels
— Walking heel to toe with a slightly exaggerated hip sway, rather than mincing around on the ball of the foot.
Basically, it comes down to working your core – as Pilates, yoga and plank exercises do to limber and stretch your ankles, calves and thighs, as well as strengthen your abdominal muscles to make it easier to maintain balance and posture while walking in high heels.